Crete. Hippie Heritage - Matala Beach

Crete. Hippie Heritage - Matala Beach

19.03.2021
Updated: 23 July 2019

The famous village of Matala (Μάταλα) and the beach of the same name are located in the Heraklion region on the western shore of the Mesar Plain. A magnificent beach, clear sea, small cozy hotels, original landscape have made Matala one of the most popular places in Crete in recent decades. Matala has always had an attractive and strategic importance. The only artificial caves in the rock indicate that already in prehistoric times people lived here, moreover, in some caves there were several rooms, and the niches were decorated with carved ornaments.

In the Minoan era, according to scientists, Matala was the port of the city of Festus - one of the main centers of the Minoan civilization.

Later, as studies show, in the I-II century A.D. the Matala caves were used as tombs. At this time Matala was already the port of Gortyna. In the 70s of the XX century this paradise was chosen by hippies from all over the world, after which a widespread misconception appeared that "Matala is the center of hippies".

Indeed, in the 70s Matala gained such fame. You can still find here such interesting and pleasant "echoes" of those times:

The Greek hippie film "My Aunt the Hippie" was filmed here. Musicians of the Rolling Stones even came here, making it even more popular. But according to one version, after the collapse of one of the caves and the death of a man, the hippies were expelled from here, and the caves were fenced off and taken under protection. According to another version, the inhabitants of Crete, shocked by such a neighborhood, gradually ousted the hippies from the caves. Currently, the caves are protected by the Archaeological Service, but in the morning anyone can get into them.

Matala is located in a fairly convenient location, due to which the local climate is considered one of the most favorable on the island, and in the Mediterranean basin as a whole. Located between two low mountains, Matala has its own microclimate with mild winters and not hot summers. And its westward orientation allows you to admire the unique beauty of the sunsets.

Almost all local cafes and taverns are located in such a way that their visitors can not only have a tasty meal, but also enjoy a spectacular end to the day.

Sunset on Matala Beach in November

The local beach has been awarded the "European Blue Flag" year after year for its exceptional cleanliness and suitability. And the purest water in the sea and the gentle sun do not leave indifferent either adults or children. The beach is well equipped. There are sun loungers and umbrellas, a shower, a lifeguard, a cafe to quench your hunger or thirst.

On the embankment of the village, you can buy souvenirs with Matala symbols and many other memorable souvenirs that will remind you of a carefree vacation on the island of Crete.

But people come to Matala not only to swim and sunbathe. Matala is also interesting for those who decided to get to know more about the excavations in Festus and Gortyn. After all, these ancient cities are located in close proximity from here.

South of Matala Beach, there is a fairly well-known Red Beach, which is popular with nudists. And the name of the beach comes from the color of the sand, which has a reddish tint. But you can only get to this beach on foot along a rather dangerous path, and the complete lack of infrastructure will hardly allow you to fully enjoy these places. North of Matala there is another beach, stretching from Kommos to Kokkinos Pyrgos and passing by the settlement of Kalamaki. On the beach near Kalamaki, as well as on Red Beach, there are almost no sun loungers with umbrellas, except perhaps belonging to a few hotels in the village of Kalamaki. There is practically no place to hide from the hot midday sun, and the beach is constantly blown by the winds, which makes staying on it uncomfortable. Entry into the sea here is rather difficult and unsafe, as there are natural slabs near the coast, which are usually slippery. The village of Kalamaki is known primarily for the fact that the Mediterranean turtles Caretta Caretta lay their eggs on the local beach. Places of egg laying are fenced off, and on the sea in these places any kind of water entertainment is prohibited except for riding on catamarans. North of the village of Matala, in the area of ​​the village of Kommos, is the southern end of this beach. Kommos is interesting because, as a result of excavations, the ruins of ancient temples, dry docks and warehouses were found here. Archaeologists suggest that Kommos used to be the harbor of ancient Festus and was of great economic importance to Crete. True, all the openings can be admired only from behind the fence, since access to the territory is prohibited.

Church in the rock

It should be noted that Matala is not the quietest and least visited village in the south of Crete. This is a full-fledged tourist place, where buses go from bus stations, there are streets with souvenir shops.

There are hotels in the village where you can always stay to enjoy this unique place. In addition to traditional Cretan cuisine, local taverns serve fresh fish from the Libyan Sea, local wines and tsikoudia (grape vodka).

But, despite all of the above, Matala remains a place where you can always retire and enjoy the romantic atmosphere, admire the nature of Crete, take a walk in the shade of orange groves and take a break from the bustle of the city.


Reference Information:

1. Where is it located? Matala is located in the south of Crete, 70 km south of Mt. Heraklion, 78 km southeast of g. Rethymno and 27 km from the village. Agia Galini.
2. Coordinates of the village of Matala (Μάταλα): DD 34.996373, 24.755096. DMS 34 ° 59 "46.9" N 24 ° 45 "18.4" E.
3. How to get there? Matala can be reached by bus, rental car and taxi.
4. What to see in the vicinity? 12 km from Matala is one of the Minoan palaces of Crete - Phaistos Palace(DD 35.051358, 24.814330. DMS 35 ° 03 "04.9" N 24 ° 48 "51.6" E). There is a gorge 20 km to the southeast Agiofarango... 14 km east of Matala is Monastery of Our Lady of Hodegetria.
5. Where to stay? Hotels and apartments in Matala can be found in the largest search engines and hotel booking systems:

Matala beach- one of the beaches on the southern coast of Crete. It really does not belong to the "wild", because the infrastructure on the beach itself and along the coast is quite developed. But due to the lack of large hotels, there are still few people here and it is comfortable to rest.


The main feature and highlight of the Matala resort are the local caves, formed in the rocks millions of years ago and outwardly very reminiscent of huge honeycombs.


But they are famous not for their centuries-old history, but for the fact that in the not so distant past (so in 60-70 years) these caves were chosen by Hippies. During the day, the "flower children" were relaxing on the beach, swimming, sunbathing, smoking, loving ... in general, doing all the most beloved and carefree things. And in the evening we moved for the night in cool, and most importantly, completely free, dwellings.

I don't know if there was any furniture in the caves at that time, but I wouldn't be surprised if the Hippies felt great on the bare floor.

Now, no one except insects lives in caves, and they themselves are considered an archaeologically important object.

Because of this title, the rocks were fenced off a few years ago, a ticket booth was installed, and now those who wish can climb the caves during strictly allotted working hours from 8:00 to 17:00 for € 2 per person. Business and nothing personal, no more Flower power!

Although the memories of Hippies are still found at every step: in the form of graffiti, stylized cafes and shops.







Even in the main square, where local pensioners gather in the evenings and sing Greek songs with a guitar, the reminder of the past wild times does not bother anyone.


If earlier the local population was not very disposed to the reckless Hippies, considering them unwashed and licentious drug addicts. Now, thanks to the remaining attributes, the traditional Greek village has its own unique appearance attracting guests from all over the island. And once a year, at the end of June, newly minted Hippies and just fans from all over the world come to Matala for a music festival. And for three whole days on the beach a real orgy is going on.

For the first time I learned about this resort not so long ago from the popular travel show "Eagle and Reshka". Even then, I really liked Matala. But having already checked on myself several places advertised in this program and being very disappointed with them, I was skeptical about visiting Matala beach. Having decided that if there is an opportunity, we will stop by, and if not along the way, then we will not be torn. Naturally, when you don't expect anything special, the reality is pleasantly surprising. I liked Matala so much that just one passing trip was not enough. I would like to stay here for a couple of days. A wonderful place and why so few people know about it.


Get — simply, no mountain serpentines and tiring walks. Parking is huge, free a little further and for € 5 per day right next to the beach.

With food- no problem, supermarkets, cafes, ice cream, fruits. You can lie down and chew something all day.

Beach- chic, large, spacious, not crowded, the water is clean. There is an area with paid sun loungers and sun loungers, but there is enough space for the niggardly in the shade of the trees for everyone.



Town- cute, small, but very cute. Wandering the streets, gawking at souvenirs, sitting in a shady cafe is a pleasant experience.



Matala beach is one of the beautiful beaches Crete. Sometimes it is also called "Hippie Beach" due to the fact that in the 60s it was chosen by young people of this subculture. Hippies flew to the island from all over the world and settled right in the ancient caves on the beach. After some time, the locals, led by Bishop Gortinis, drove out most of the visitors, but the name remained. At that time, Matala was visited by such celebrities as Bob Dylan, Joni Mitchell, Janis Joplin.

The beach is 250 meters long and 45 meters wide.

Many mysteries and legends are associated with the Matala beach. According to one of them, Zeus, madly in love with the Phoenician princess Europa, stole her from the house and brought her here. Then the fugitives went to Gortyna.

Hotels near the beach "Matala"

If you want to stay in this quiet place for a longer period, then hotels with sea and mountain views are available for you.

sights

Many tourists come to Matala Beach to see the ancient Caves Matala. They have become a kind of visiting card of the place. It is still not known for certain when they began to form. There is a hypothesis that primitive people pierced them in soft sandy rock. In the Roman era, caves were used for burials. Archaeological finds confirm this. Inside there is a small Christian church of the Most Holy Theotokos, which was used as catacombs during the Christian persecutions. The Brutospeliana Cave was visited by Emperor Brutus, so it bears his name. Now the caves are open to tourists, but it is forbidden to stay in them. You can visit the caves for 2 euros. From the northern summit, the bravest ones jump into the water.

Separately, you can highlight the sunsets on the Matala beach. The bay is one of the best places in Crete for watching the setting sun. From here it seems that it rolls right into the sea.

The largest influx of tourists is in the second half of June. At this time, the musical Matala Beach Festival begins. A huge stage is set on the seashore. Contemporary live music plays against the backdrop of ancient caves. The festival lasts three days. During these days, performances with the participation of famous Greek and foreign performers, theater shows, games and mass yoga classes take place on the stage.

In ancient times Matala was the port of Gortyna and Phaestos. Therefore, people come here not only for a beach holiday, but also to see the excavations of ancient cities.

Infrastructure

Matala is a sandy beach with a gentle entrance to the water. Perfect for families with small children. Umbrellas and sun loungers are paid, about € 2 for each. In the village around the beach there are many taverns serving national dishes.

Matala Beach has been awarded the Blue Flag award. It is the cleanest beach in Greece.

You should definitely try charcoal fish and moussaka here. Small shops are nice to buy souvenirs for the whole family. For the convenience of visitors, the Matala beach is equipped with:

  • umbrellas,
  • sun loungers,
  • first aid point,
  • rescue service,
  • showers, toilets,
  • volleyball court.

Where is Matala beach in Crete

Matala Beach is located in a natural bay of the island on the southern coast. It is surrounded by rocks on three sides. From here you can see the islands of Paximadia or Elefandakya (Elephants). A quiet fishing village has been built around the beach. Its remoteness from the airport and the city of Heraklion have become an undoubted advantage. Due to the long road, there are significantly fewer people on the beach. The village of Matala has managed to maintain its charm and authenticity.

How to get to Matala beach

The beach can be reached by public transport or a rented car.

Bus

KTEL regular buses run to the beach. The journey will take about 2 hours. One way ticket - € 8.5. Detailed schedule on the official website. Departure from Heraklion from the Central Bus Station.

A car

From Heraklion: 70 km, journey duration about 1 hour and 20 minutes. Matala beach is located on the border between the mountains of Asterousia and Messara. In order to get to the beach, you need to take the E75 federal highway, turn south and take the built-in road that leads to Timbaki. Further, straight to the village of Mires. When you reach it, take the road that leads to Matala. The route runs through the most beautiful places of Crete - through the mountains, valleys, the villages of Sivas, Agia Varvara, Agio Deka and the town of Mori.

Taxi

From Nikos Kazantzakis Airport in Herakliron, you can take an economical Kiwitaxi taxi (for a family or a group of up to four people) or a personal minibus (for a group of seven to nineteen people).

Matala- a small village on the south coast Crete... The bay, at which the village arose, is bounded on both sides by rocks. Its left (southern) edge is more gentle, and on the right side, a rocky wall of yellow sandstone rises and stretches into the sea. There is a three-hundred-meter strip of beach between the rocks. The beach is facing west.

The beach in Matale has a pretentious name “ Zeus beach". According to legend, Zeus, turning into a bull, kidnapped the Phoenician princess Europa and took her to Crete, exactly to this place, where he again turned into a young man and took possession of a poor girl. And she gave birth to three sons, one of whom, Minos, gave the name of a whole civilization - Minoan.

From the historical past: in antiquity at different times there was a port in the bay: the city of Festus (10 km from here) and the city of Gortyna (30 km to Gortyna).

Now nothing reminds of the glorious historical past here.

However, this small village is extremely popular with tourists. Many find it adorable and distinguish it from the many other wonderful places in Crete.

The main attraction of Matala- rocky wall, bordering the bay from the north.

The fact is that in this rock of soft sandstone cavities were easily hollowed out, and over time, all of it was covered with makeshift caves.

During the Roman and early Christian periods, the caves were used for burials. There was also a cave church.

The Cretan village of Matala found new life in the 60s of the last century: it was "discovered" by American hippies and, like coastal swallows, settled in caves above the water. For a time it was even called the "hippie mecca". Among the inhabitants and visitors of Matala were famous rock musicians: Bob Dylan, Joni Mitchell, Kat Stevens. The Rollings are also called, but I have not found confirmation of this.

Now hippies have long been evicted. This "restless family" aroused suspicion even among complacent Greeks, and when one of the caves collapsed and someone died, the Greeks took advantage of this opportunity and closed the passage to the caves for alleged restoration. However, the spirit of the former freemen of the “flower children” is still in the air, and to this day in Matala one can meet aged hippies, whose youth, apparently, was associated with this glorious place.

The Matala Beach festival is held here every year in mid-June.

The scenes are set right on the beach. Free admission. Many come with their own tents.

Where is Matala

Matala is located on the shores of the Libyan Sea, 70 km from Heraklion.

Road from Rethymno

We went to Matala by excursion minibus from. We took an excursion at the local travel agency "Spiridon-Tours". In addition to Matala, this one-day tour also included a visit to Agia Galini and Spili.

The road from the north coast to the south took an hour and a half. It was picturesque, it ran through mountains, gorges, past villages, olive groves and vineyards.

We drove past ancient Festus, which, along with Knossos, was one of the most important cities of the Minoan civilization.

I asked the guide why we don't stop near Festus, it's very interesting. She replied that earlier excursions to Matala included visits to both Festa and Gortyna, but tourists enjoyed spending time on the beach and in the caves of Matala, and in Festa and Gortyna, many did not even get off the bus. It used to be that out of 50 people on the bus, 7-8 people went on an excursion to Festus. Therefore, Festus and Gortina were removed from the excursions. Sadly. So we looked at the slope with the ruins of the ancient city only from the bus window.

What is Matala Village

Matala begins with a dried olive tree, on the trunk of which the local sculptor Spyros Stefanakis has carved masks.

Behind the tree, just to the right is the parking lot, and behind it the beach begins.

If you continue to walk along the road from the tree, you will come to the center of the village.

There is a small church

The center of Matala is exclusively tourist. Taverns alternate with souvenir shops, shops are added to the market space.

Prevailing goods: ceramics, scarves and loose shirts made of gauze-type material. Such clothes are probably in great demand in the summer heat.

On the central square, the asphalt is covered with drawings.

The rocks

First of all, we went to the rock with caves.

The area with caves is fenced and open for visits from 10 am to 6 pm The entrance is paid, the price is nominal, 2 euros.

We paid for the entrance and climbed the rocks.

The caves are arranged in tiers, or floors. This layering was set by the layered structure of the rock. After passing the first level, it is easy to climb to the second and so on.

A small narrow ledge runs along each level, along which one can walk along the caves of this level.

Rooms inside the caves can be two- and three-room.

Sometimes a small window is cut between the caves (this is convenient - you can transfer something from one cave to another or have conversations with neighbors).

Remnants of drawings have been preserved in some places on the walls.

A beautiful view of the bay opens from the rocks. I can imagine how wonderful it was to wake up in the morning and see this piece of paradise before your eyes. A great alternative to the service in Vietnam, from which the American guys were hiding here.

And here is the head of the cave god. God is closely watching what is happening in the bay

We climbed high enough, five tiers up. The number of "apartments" decreased with height. You will not climb to such a height, and in the dark you can wriggle your way to your apartment.

Satisfying our curiosity, we went downstairs and went to the beach.

Zeus beach

Matala beach is small, about 300 m long, but rather wide, sandy and pebble. The approach is shallow, but the depth starts quickly.

From a height (from the upper caves) it is seen that stone slabs are found in the water (closer to the rocks).

The beach is free. Fixed umbrellas with palm roofs are installed. You can rent a sun lounger with an umbrella. They say that by 10 o'clock in the summer they are already being dismantled.

In the depths of the beach, closer to the rock wall, trees grow, so you can sit in the shade of the trees.

There is a toilet, shower and a dressing room (I saw only one stall).

The water was comfortable in early October. I think it's 23-24 degrees. The day before, we swam on the northern coast, in Souda Bay. There was a strong wind and cool water. It is usually believed that in Crete the water on the south coast is 1-2 degrees colder than on the north, but in our case this was not confirmed. The beach was sunny and calm, and the Libyan Sea was noticeably warmer than the Cretan Sea.

I took a mask with me and went to study the underwater terrain.

After the Red Sea, I didn't even consider the Mediterranean for snorkeling. But it turned out that snorkelling is fun here too. It is especially interesting to swim along the rocks, past underwater caves, to swim into crevices, when the walls practically converge, and boundless depth goes down. Small fish come across.

The people jumped from the rocks into the sea. By the way, you can climb into some caves from the sea and not pay for the entrance, but these caves are from the very edge, from them there is no such view of the bay as from above.

South side of the beach and the Red Beach trail

The southern side of the beach is flatter and lower. A café with panoramic terraces on the sea and the opposite rock with caves stretch along the rocky "claw". And in the evenings, the sunsets are watched from the café terraces.

Behind a number of cafes, the slope is steeper. The houses are coming to an end, the path goes up. A trail through the mountains leads to Red Beach, nudist Red Beach. Go there for about 40 minutes.

Where to live in Matale

While the center of the village is occupied mainly by shops and cafes, most of the hotels are located on both sides of a quiet street that leaves the main road and stretches south. There are several hotels on the main road at the very beginning of the village.

There is also a camping in Matale. It is located on the northern side of the bay and is most in demand during the festival.

From the cliff I saw only a lonely tent. I don’t know if it was installed for money or if you can spend the night for free.

Probably, it would be boring to live in this village for a long time, but for several days there is something to do here: swim and climb the rocks, walk along the mountain paths along the seashore, see the archaeological zones of Festus and Gortyna, go to the monastery of Our Lady of Adigitria and the Holy Gorge (Agiofarango) and others interesting places nearby.

Finally, I will say that this was my first trip to Crete, and Matala turned out to be one of the most pleasant impressions of this trip.


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Matala - this particular village on the shores of the Libyan Sea, 75 kilometers from Heraklion, is considered in mythology to be the place where Zeus, turning a bull, brought the Phoenician princess Europe, and from here, in the form of an eagle, he transferred her to Gortyna.

At the time of the Minoan civilization, one of the ports of Festos was located in the Matala Bay, which later passed into the possession of Gortyna. Here in 824 the Arab conquerors landed.

Modern is a Blue Flag sandy beach and caves that attract hundreds of tourists.

Hippie Caves

During the Neolithic, numerous caves were carved into the porous rock of the coastal cliffs.

Ancient people used them for living... The walls of some caves still bear traces of carved ornaments.

During the period of Roman rule and early Christianity, in the I-II centuries, caves were used for burials... This is evidenced by the finds of archaeologists.

One of the caves is called Brutospeliana. According to legend, the Roman general Brutus loved to visit her. There is a small one in the rock Church of the Most Holy Theotokos, which served as a shelter for the first Christians from persecution.

In the late 60s of the XX century Matala caves were chosen by hippies who came here from all over the world. Among them were many young Americans who did not want to participate in the Vietnam War.

This place became a cult place after the musicians Rolling Stones, Bob Dylan, Janis Joplin visited here. The popular Canadian singer Joni Mitchell wrote the song Carey in 1971, dedicated to the memories of Matala.

The Greek hippie film My Aunt the Hippie was filmed in these locations.

Local residents were not too happy with this neighborhood. In addition, the collapse of one of the caves and the death of a man led to the fact that the hippies were expelled from these places, and the rocks were surrounded by gratings.

Today the Matala caves are managed by the Archaeological Survey. Day their can be visited for 3 euros... The entrance is open until 17.00.

Matala beaches

The local climate is one of the most favorable on the island.

The bay where Matala is located is surrounded by low mountains on both sides. They protect it from the northern winds, there are mild winters and not too sultry summers.

The bay faces west, which allows you to admire the magnificent sunsets.

Matala Beach is considered one of the most beautiful in Crete due to its crystal clear turquoise water and the white rocks reflected in it, dotted with numerous caves.

In the evenings, the rocks are illuminated, this gives the landscape an additional, unique flavor.

The beach itself sandy pebble, its length is about 300 meters. Equipped with a shower, changing cabins, a set of an umbrella and a sun lounger costs 4 euros.

There are a large number of cafes, parking is provided for cars.

The entrance to the water is a stone slab of natural origin, so care should be taken during waves. The beach is awarded the Blue Flag annually.

On Matala Beach since 2010 there is an annual festival in June gathering thousands of music, sea and sun lovers from all over the world. The festival format includes world music hits from the 60s of the last century to the present day.

Red Beach or Kokini Amos (Amoudia)

Red Beach or Kokini Amos or as the locals call it, Amoudia is located 800 meters south of Matala.

The name comes from the color of the sand having a reddish tint.

From the village, this beach can only be reached on foot along a narrow mountain path. The journey takes 40 minutes; it is advisable to have sturdy shoes on your feet.

Descent into the water is comfortable - gentle and sandy... There is no developed infrastructure here, but umbrellas and sun loungers can be rented for 4 euros. There is a small kiosk with drinks.

Due to its solitude the beach is popular with nudists.

Commos

Kommos Beach is located 3 kilometers north of Matala.

Divided into two parts: equipped with everything necessary for a comfortable stay and wild, favored by nudists.

Not far from the beach as a result of archaeological excavations were about the ruins of the ancient port of the Minoan city of Festos were discovered: the remains of a harbor, shipyard, warehouses, public buildings and a temple.

The excavation area is surrounded by a fence, there is no passage inside.

Kalamaki

Kalamaki beach stretches from Kommos to Kokkinos Pyrgos.

Coarse light sand, gently sloping water entrance.

A part of the beach opposite the Kalamaki village is equipped, there are umbrellas, sun loungers, a rescue point, a playground, a water bike rental center and a cafe.

In the sand of Kalamaki beach the Caretta-Caretta turtle lays eggs... In order not to frighten them and not to damage the nests, it is forbidden to be on unlit parts of the beach at night in the summer.

Between Matala Beach and Kokini Amos there is an impressive rock formation Theosyni.

An excellent view of the entire Messara Bay opens up from here.

The rock protruding from the water split over time, forming a natural cave, the name of which sounds like Kurupi.

She was chosen by wild pigeons and Mediterranean monk seals. You can get to the rock along the shore, and you can explore the cave from the water by renting a boat.

How to get there

From the bus station B in Heraklion (read all about the administrative center of Crete), the KTEL bus runs to Matalu every day, on weekdays at 9.00 and 12.30, on Saturdays at 7.30, 11.30 and 12.45.

The return bus from Matala leaves at 15.00, on Sundays at 17.15.

The cost of travel 7.80 EUR... Can be reached by taxi for about 75 euros.

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